Kahesuunaline lapikude pole ilmselt kõige mõistlikum kindakudumisviis. Aga ma tahtsin teada, mis mulje jääb, kui kannan kindakirja entrelac'ile üle. Ja proovilappe selleks, et teada saada, mis saab, kui ma koon nii või naa, olen ma juba nii palju teinud, et nüüd ei hakanud proovima enam lapil, vaid otse kinnastel.
Võtsin aluseks Halliste kassikäpakirja E. Aljasmetsa raamatust "Silmuskudumine" (mu vana hea 5. klassi õpik 1971. aastast :) ) ja keerasin selle põhimotiivi diagonaalseks -- nii et tema asend ruudustikku moodustavate ristuvate joontega-triipudega jääks samaks. Muidugi ei tulnud 45-kraadise keeramisega teps mitte sama motiiv! (Ah, mind vana rumalat karu küll!) Aga tõenäoliselt on ka minu paberile kantud motiiv kusagil vanades kindakirjades olemas.
Niisiis alustasin proovimisega -- luues üles 11 silma kindatipu ühe ristküliku jaoks -- on see siis peopesa või käeselja poole jääv, pole alguses vist oluline. Kui see ristkülik valmis sai, tegin kinda teise külje ülemise ristküliku ja siis jätkasin juba järgmistega.
Ei tea, kas neid väikesi lappe võiks kududa ka vähema ridade arvuga? Praegu püüan rangelt põhiõpetusest kinni pidada, kududes ridu kaks korda rohkem, kui on lapi laiust moodustavaid silmi. Aga kirjamuster pole ju nii elastne kui tavaline ühevärviline kude ning lapikesed tulevad pikad ja kitsad.
In English:
Entrelac is not, obviously, the most sensible way to knit mittens. But I wanted to see what would happen when I transfer traditional colourwork pattern into entrelac. I rotated the main motif of a pattern 45 grades, so that its relation to the thin crossing lines be the same as on the original pattern. Well, rotating a position of a motif into diagonal will not give the same motif, as I had presumed, maybe (silly old bear!). So what? I'm quite sure a pattern similar to mine can be also found in the rich heritage of traditional mitten patterns.
As I'm tired of swatches -- swatches for trying "what will happen if..." -- I just started the mittens. The mittens are my swatches this time. And -- I started them from the top! Cast on 11 stitches to knit the first block, and when this was ready, I cast on another 11 stiches for the top block of the opposite side of a mitten (i.e. one for the palm and one for the back of a hand). And then the next blocks, just as it seems logical at the moment when another block has been got ready.
What I'm thinking while knitting: is it always important to knit twice as many rows for a block as there are stitches on the needle? Multicoloured pattern will not give as elastic a block as stockinette does. So the blocks grow too long and narrow, maybe? I may try to knit something with shorter blocks, say, 11 stitches and 15-16 rows. At the moment I work with traditional 11 stitches/ abt 22 rows. Why about 22 rows? It also depends on at which side of the block I am going to finish it and start the next one.
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